1 gal. Big Blue Lily Turf Flowering Shrub with Abundant Blue Flower Spikes Rising Above Arching Grass Form

SKU: SBLL001
Regular price $19.99
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Description

The Big Blue Lily Turf is commonly known and grown for its pleasing foliage as it is dense with narrow, bowed dark green leaves as well as thickly clustered small purple flowers that show in late summer. Eventually, the blooms turn into black berries that last into winter. This plant is stout and solid, growing up to 18 in. tall and wide and is well suited for USDA zones 5 to 10. Favoring light, moderately fertile, acidic and moist, well-drained soil, in full sun or partial shade, the Big Blue Lily Turf also endures full shade but will bear longer foliage and grow more slowly. These hardy plants have many attributes including a deer and rabbit tolerance, drought, heat and humidity resistance and they are essentially pest and disease free. Another popular attribute to this plant is that it performs well in dry shade. Big Blue Lily Turfs make excellent edging plants and are very useful in mass planting or when used in ground cover.

 

  • Big blue lily turfs survive well in dry shaded areas
  • Big blue lily turfs make sensational edges and are very favorable in mass planting or ground cover
  • Many attributes including a resistance to rabbit and deer and a tolerance to heat, humidity and drought, the big blue lily turfs are a highly popular plant
  • Blooming in late summer, the big blue lily turf produces small purple flowers that turn to black berries

Frequently Asked Questions

Will it come back next year?

Yes, if you live in one of the USDA hardiness zones listed on this page. Your zone tells you how cold winter usually gets where you live, and the zone rating shows whether this plant is likely to survive it. You can look up your zone by ZIP code.

Sun or shade?

It depends on the plant. Hostas, ferns, Japanese forest grass and Japanese sedges want part to full shade. Lavender needs full sun and soil that drains fast, and daylilies bloom best in full sun but manage in part shade.

When do I cut back an ornamental grass?

In late winter or early spring, before new growth starts. Leave last year's leaves standing through winter, then cut the clump down to 2 to 4 inches. Blue fescue can go down to 3 to 4 inches, or you can comb out the old leaves instead. Evergreen grass-like plants, such as black mondo grass, don't need cutting back.

It's spring and my grass still looks dead. Is it?

Probably not. Warm-season grasses, like switch grass, fountain grass and maiden grass, often don't start growing until late spring or early summer, well after cool-season grasses have greened up. Leave it in the ground and give it time.

What's eating holes in my hosta leaves?

Most likely slugs or snails. Look for ragged holes between the veins and shiny slime trails. Slugs feed at night in damp weather, so water in the morning, and handpick them about 2 hours after dark. Slug baits can harm children, pets and wildlife, so read the label first.

Why is my lavender dying?

Too much water is the most likely cause. Lavender needs full sun and soil that drains fast, and dampness kills it more often than cold does, especially soil that stays wet through winter. In heavy soil, plant it in a raised bed. Water it the first year, but never let water stand around it.

What does the gallon size mean?

It's the size of the nursery pot the plant ships in, not the plant's height. A 1-gallon plant ships in a 1-gallon pot. The plant itself varies by variety and by season.

It arrived wilted or dropped some leaves. Is it OK?

A few days in a dark box is stressful for a leafy plant, and some yellow or dropped leaves are common. Water it if the soil is dry, give it a few days in bright shade, then move it into more sun over a week or two. New leaves usually follow. If it looks damaged or unhealthy beyond a few leaves, contact us that day with photos.

How do I plant it?

Plant when the ground isn't frozen, and not during a heat wave. Loosen any roots circling the root ball, and set the top of the root ball level with the ground or slightly above it. Water it in well.

How often should I water it?

Check the soil every few days for the first few months. A new plant's root ball dries out faster than the ground around it, so feel the soil at the root ball itself, not only the surface. Water when it's dry, and let it drain.